In a world where glamping and motorhomes dominate the camping scene, it's easy to forget the humble beginnings of this beloved pastime. Today, I want to take you on a journey through time and space, retracing the steps of Britain's pioneering campers and exploring how this simple pleasure has evolved over the last century.
A Journey Through Cycling and Camping History
Imagine yourself in the heart of Oxford, a city steeped in history and tradition. As I embarked on my e-bike adventure, I felt a sense of excitement and curiosity, knowing that I was about to uncover a hidden side of this familiar place. The National Cycle Route 57 became my guide, leading me through a tapestry of blooming hawthorn trees, their pink and white blossoms creating a magical May Day parade.
This year marks the 125th anniversary of the Camping and Caravanning Club (CCC), and what better way to celebrate than by embarking on a 60-mile cycling and camping trip? My journey began in Oxford, the birthplace of this iconic organization, and ended at one of the oldest campsites in the CCC network, Walton-on-Thames.
The CCC, originally known as the Association of Cycle Campers, was founded by Thomas Hiram Holding, a visionary who understood the profound health and wellness benefits of camping. In 1901, Holding, already an avid camper, visited his friend Rev EC Pitt-Johnson in Oxford, and together they recognized the growing interest in this hobby, leading them to establish a club.
What makes this story particularly fascinating is Holding's innovative spirit. Not only was he an early adopter of the 'safety cycle'—a precursor to modern bicycles—but he also invented much of the camping gear we take for granted today. From lightweight tents to folding poles and cycle touring bags, Holding was a true pioneer, ensuring that camping was accessible and enjoyable for all.
As I pedaled eastward from Oxford, the quiet roads of Wheatley and Thame gave way to the straight lines of the Phoenix Trail, a former railway track now transformed into a cycling path. Here, I was joined by red kites, replacing the skylarks of Oxford, as I glided effortlessly away from road traffic. It was a peaceful journey, passing by the old station building at Bledlow and under the abandoned railway bridge, a reminder of the area's rich history.
Holding's own journey into camping began with a childhood trek in a wagon on the prairies of North America, an experience that left him hooked. Later, he took to camping by canoe in Ireland, but it was a conversation with a friend in England that sparked his interest in cycle camping. This friend, planning a week-long camping trip by tandem bike, asked Holding to help attach his kit to the frame, and the rest, as they say, is history.
My first overnight stop was at Bella Vista Camping in Radnage, a family-run club site nestled on the Chiltern Cycleway. Here, I was pleased to find a large field dedicated to tents, a reminder that despite the popularity of motorhomes and glamping, the CCC still welcomes humble tent campers with open arms.
The next day, I continued my journey, leaving the Chilterns and Route 57 behind as I headed south through the busy streets of Marlow and Cookham. Narrow cycle paths between Maidenhead and Eton provided a more tranquil experience, and I was struck by the curiosity of locals as I stopped for lunch in Dorney. It felt like I was showcasing an alternative way of holidaying in Britain, much like Holding did over a century ago.
One of the unexpected highlights of my journey was Windsor Great Park, with its easy roads providing a welcome contrast to the gravel tracks of Egham. Designated bike lanes through Staines and Chertsey made for an enjoyable final stretch, and a ferry crossing over the Thames at Shepperton to Weybridge provided a fitting conclusion. After all, the very first CCC campsite was located on one of the islands here.
Arriving at the Walton campsite, I was struck by how much had changed since Holding's time. The tents of today, with their nylon tunnels and inflatable poles, are a far cry from the A-frames and 'wigwams' of silk that Holding and his contemporaries used. Campervans have overtaken bicycles, and even the Thames itself has been rerouted, no longer sweeping by the pitches as it once did.
Yet, amidst all this change, one thing remains constant: the spirit of adventure and curiosity that drives campers to explore the great outdoors. And I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to those early pioneers, knowing that despite the evolution of camping gear and transportation, the essence of the experience—the power of nature, the sense of freedom, and the joy of discovery—remains unchanged.
As I sat by the river, reading Holding's 'The Camper's Handbook' and chuckling at the description of the correct attire for female cycle campers, I felt grateful for the progress we've made. As a lone woman, I was permitted to do this trip, and do it in comfort, thanks to my e-bike and eco-friendly Poopaloo dry-powder toilet.
On my final day, I swapped my pedals for oars, spending the day canoeing on the Thames, sightseeing at a leisurely pace, and enjoying a drink at the historic Anglers pub, my canoe tied up beside my table. It was a fitting end to my journey, a reminder that sometimes the best way to explore is to slow down and appreciate the little things.
So, as we celebrate the 125th anniversary of the CCC, let's remember the pioneers who blazed the trail for us. Let's embrace the changes that have made camping more accessible and enjoyable, while also cherishing the timeless values of curiosity, adventure, and a deep connection to nature that have always been at the heart of this beloved pastime.
